Well folks, it happens every year. Must be something about the early spring energy- the buds and blossoms awakening from their winter’s slumber. Yes, it’s this time of year that I embark on my annual bread odyssey. One year it was sourdough English muffins. Last year it was my inaugural journey into the world of Colomba Pasquale. This year, it’s a new and improved version of the Colomba. Something about this time of year stokes the maternal energy in me. I marvel at the vigorous life springing from a simple mix of water and flour. “Mother,” as the young people, and the bread bakers, say.

So, here we are.

And yes, you heard that right, I’ve improved my Colomba Pasquale recipe. I debuted this item- a traditional Italian Easter bread, similar to panettone- at my Easter pop-up at Cafe Lago last year.

Little baby business owner, me, offered that particular item with the hubris of someone who had never done it before. Let’s just say, it was a learning experience.

I wanted to make more than I did, but ran out of time and ingredients. And, to be honest, my kitchen just isn’t set up to do bread at scale. A word to the wise: if you put too much dough in your mixer, it will break down.

Last year’s Colomba turned out pretty good, but there was room for improvement. I wanted more open and even crumb structure, and better moisture retention.

Unlike cookies, which can be formed, then frozen to bake off fresh, bread doesn’t work like that! Bread dough will both make you wait, and waits for no one. I know that people who bake bread daily get into the rhythm of it. But, an annual bread tourist, like me, has to relearn the ins and outs of dough development every year.

So, I’ve been workshopping. Doing the research (you really gotta sift 🙄 through, but you can teach yourself anything on YouTube). I welcomed any and all advice from my bread baker friends. I dug into the bread blogs… and I completely changed my Colomba recipe.

The difference between last year’s product and the current version is significant. I’ve switched from using commercial yeast to an entirely naturally leavened dough.

In the recesses of my food scientist brain, I remembered something important. Sourdough bread tends to retain more moisture than bread leavened with commercial yeast. Moisture retention was a problem I aimed to solve with my original Colomba. So, I tried the sourdough approach.

Colomba Pasquale is an enriched dough, a member of the brioche branch of the bread family tree. It is essentially the same as Christmas panettone, but with different flavorings and toppings. This bread contains lots of egg yolks and butter. These additions, make for a rich and delicious dough, but interfere with the structural integrity of the gluten matrix around each little air bubble. This kind of bread is often made with an extra boost; commercial yeast. The aggressive fermenter is added to ensure big air bubbles and higher tensile strength of the gluten matrix.

But, guess what I discovered? With enough time, and maintenance, a sourdough starter will give rise to enriched bread dough. The natural yeast take a little extra nurturing. But once their environment is cultivated, their bacterial garden properly tended, they really take off!

My main resource in developing a sourdough Colomba was an article on a blog a called Breadtopia. The author, Dan Dee, made a sourdough panettone using a multi-day, multi-dough process. By the way, Dan Dee won the Minnesota state fair baking competition with his sourdough panettone. I followed his method, more or less, but it took longer for my dough to develop. Without a fancy proofer at home, my dough rests at room temperature. So, it’s a three-day, three-dough process for me. But, by golly, it works!

The sourdough Colomba’s crumb is much more moist and tender than the version made with commercial yeast. I did the side by side tests to prove it. Soliciting feedback from my family and neighbors. All more-than-willing participants.

The sourdough flavor comes through in the final product. I found the tangy, naturally leavened, version actually works with the traditional Colomba flavoring, candied citrus zest.

Last year, I made Colomba in the traditional shape- a dove- symbolizing peace. The dove molds yielded pretty massive loaves, over two pounds each. When I tested the sourdough in the dove molds, the crumb was so tender, that when I hung it upside down to cool (this is the actual cooling method), the bread separated from the mold. It plummeted to the kitchen floor. However, when I made smaller, round loaves, they maintained their integrity through the hanging process. So, that’s what I’m going with. Each loaf weighs about one pound. I even found some really pretty floral panettone molds in that size. Perfect for springtime.

I could go on all day with the minutia of developing my sourdough Colomba recipe. But, let’s get down to the brass tacks here. How are you gonna score one of these babies?

Tremonte’s Returns to Cafe Lago for Easter Pop-Up

…At my Easter pop-up, of course!

I’m returning to Cafe Lago on Saturday, April 19th, 11am-1pm.

Owner, Carla Leonardi, is opening up the restaurant early just for the pop-up. So, everyone come on out!

I intend to build on the success of last year’s instant sell-out at Cafe Lago. This includes the new and improved Colomba Pasquale. I will also offer my signature items like Italian rainbow cookies in springtime shades and flavors.

I’m offering preorders for all my cookies. However, I’m not taking preorders for the Colomba. I hate to do that, because I like to get that money in advance. And I like to give those of you who really want an item a chance to lock it down. But, my sourdough process is so new. It feels tenuous. I’m just a little nervous about how many loaves I’ll successfully make. I’m thinking about starting a wait list for those who really want to be sure they get a loaf. If that’s you, email me at tremontesseattle@gmail.com. Otherwise, your best bet will be to show up to the pop-up when I open at 11!

Can’t wait to see you all then!